How many worms should I start with?


I recommend you start with a pound of worms for most home systems. The real answer for how many worms you need is based on how much organic waste you want to process or how much worm castings you want to produce. Mary Applehoff recommends in Worms Eat My Garbage that you use a kitchen scale and weight your kitchen scraps, the will help you know what your worm food supply will normally be. Even with a pound of worms start off slow with the feedings. Increase the food once you have a feel for how much your worms are eating. Do worry that they will run out of food, remember they eat the bedding as well.
 

What should I feed my worms?


The waste you should target is organic waste from food preparation, primarily fruit and vegetables scraps. Also included are coffee grounds and filter, egg shells (dried and crushed), tea bags, breads, pasta, and pizza crust.
• The worms will generally consume approximately ½ their body weight per day.
• Cutting, chopping, or blending fruits and vegetables will help speed the process up.
• Bury food waste under several inches of bedding, helps prevent fruit flies.
• Do not overfeed, start slowly

 

What should I not feed my worms?


Do not feed worms meat or dairy, also avoid salts oils and very spicy foods. Limited citrus is OK, but too much will make the system too acidic. Also be careful with starches like bread, they can cause the bin to heat up more than the worms can tolerate.


What temperature should I try to keep my worms at?

 


The target temperature range for survival is 40 – 90°F. The optimal temperature for a thriving system that is reproducing and processing the maximum amount of food waste is 74° F. Setting up you bin indoors in most parts of the country will make this temperature range easier to maintain. A basement or garage that tracks your home’s inside temperature works well. Be careful about putting your system in your laundry room too close to your washer machine. The vibration from the spin cycle might cause problems for you and your worms.
 

Can I vermicompost outside?


Yes, but you will need to be mindful of the outside temperature – both hot and cold. In Tennessee in the spring and summer and fall , in deep shade, having you system outside will work just fine. But when temperatures start dipping into the low 40s, its time to bring the little guys in.
 

Do people really keep worm composters in their kitchen?
 

Yes, I have several customers that keep their Worm Factory® right in the kitchen. It makes sense to place your system where it is easy and convenient to your kitchen scraps. Many people like to keep a system under their kitchen sink. Talk about a green garbage disposal – WOW!
 

Help, I have a fruit fly outbreak. How do I prevent it from happening again?
 

Fruit flies are a common annoyance that vermicomposters face. But the good news is you can limit fruit fly outbreaks by burying the worm food under 1-2 inches of bedding when you feed your worms. Fruit flies can’t dig, so they lay their eggs on rotting food on the surface of the worm bin. If you only have moist bedding on the top of your system, fruit flies will not be attracted. Freezing or microwaving your worm food may kill any existing fruit fly eggs, like on banana peels for example.
 

How do I prepare the worm bedding?
 

Shredded paper, junk mail, shredded newspaper, Coir – recycled coconut fiber and peat moss, all will work as worm bedding material. To prepare the bedding, wet with non-chlorinated water and let soak for 24 hours. You can use straight tap water that has been allowed to breath for a couple of days. The moisture consistency you are shooting for is about the same as a wrung out sponge. Don’t worry too much about getting it exactly right, if it’s too wet it will drain out, (drainage is important) if it’s to dry you can mist it later.
 

Can I just dig up some worms from my yard and put them in the bin?
 

We sell Eisenia fetida worms for composting. The common names for this worm are: red worms, red wigglers, manure worms, tiger worm and brandling worms. This type of worm is well suited for the conditions of bin life and will thrive in that environment. Earthworms that you dig up in your garden are burrowing worms, not top feeders like the ones mentioned above. This means they will not like your bin environment, and they will try to leave (Not good)! You will only need to buy worms to get started, after that these little guys will multiply on their own. We recommend starting with a pound of worms for most home systems. With some time you will reach the worm population you need to process the required amount household waste. After that, you can start a second bin for yourself or one for a friend.
 

How does compost feed my soil?

 

Vermicompost (worm compost) is a particularly high quality compost with many benefits to plants. However, compost’s chief benefit does not come from it’s NPK values, but as Christine Ziegler says in the Pay Dirt (Organic Gardening Feb/Mach 2010 Vol.57, No2),   

“Carbon, microbes, and fungi are present in abundance. And it’s the synergistic alchemy of these biological ingredients that generates the vitality and resilience in organic garden or farm soils. Here’s how. Carbon provides food for the microbes and fungi living in the soil and in the compost. The well fed microbes, in turn, rev up the nitrogen cycling in the soil, converting the N from organic to the inorganic forms that are most readily used by plants. Think of it as a whole-foods diet for the soil that will help your garden plants grow and glow with vibrant health. "

More FAQ's are coming!