QUICK START GUIDE
What you need to know to get started!
Container:
Plastic - Rubber-maid plastic bin with lid (not clear)
Wood – box or shipping crate - that was my first worm bin
Styrofoam – cooler or ice chest
We recommend the Worm Factory stackable bin system – made with high quality post-consumer recycled plastics. Saves time and is easy to use!
Size:
12-18” in depth, composting worms are top feeders, that's as deep as needed. The overall size depends on how much waste you want to process.
Design:
Worm bins need to have the following elements incorporated into the design:
Dark – worms can’t thrive with to much light
Good ventilation – worms, like all living creatures need a fresh supply of oxygen, this can be accomplished with holes in the top and sides of the container.
Moisture drainage – there must be a way for excess liquid to drain from the system; this is usually accomplished with holes on the bottom of the container.
Secure from flies or other pests – ventilation and drainage holes should be covered with screen and lid should fit securely
Bedding:
Shredded paper, junk mail, shredded newspaper, Coir – coconut fiber, peat moss
To prepare the bedding, wet with non-chlorinated water and let soak for 24 hours. You can use straight tap water that has been allowed to breath for a couple of days. The moisture consistency you are shooting for is about the same as a wrung out sponge. Don’t worry too much about getting it exactly right, if it’s to wet it will drain out, if it’s to dry you can mist it later.
Bin environment:
Temperature: The target temperature range is 55 – 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The optimal temperature is 72 – 74 degrees Fahrenheit. Setting up you bin indoors in most parts of the country will make this temperature range easier to maintain. Outdoors is OK to, but you will need to keep an eye on the temperature.
Oxygen & Moisture: These two are closely interrelated. Worms need to be moist to “breath” though their skin. Conditions that are to dry will suffocate the worms. Too much moisture will cause odor, pack the bedding and drowned your worms. If you prepare your bedding correctly and feed with a high moisture food, it should balance out. Just make sure your bin can drain.
Ph: Target range is from 6 to 8. Slightly acid is best, but don’t over do it. Crushed egg shells or lime (calcium carbonate) will make the bin less acidic.
Worms:
Buy worms from a reputable grower the identifies them as Eisenia fetida or Eisenia andrei. In almost all cases these worms will be mixed, they are pretty much identical. These are the best and most versatile composting worms. Common names for these worms are: red worm, red wiggler, manure worm, brandling worm, and tiger worm. This type of worm is well suited for the conditions of bin life and will thrive in that environment. Earthworms that you dig up in your garden are burrowing worms, not top feeders like the ones mentioned above. This means they will not do well in your bin, and they will try to leave. You will only need to buy worms to get started, after that these little guys will multiply on there own. I recommend starting with a pound or two of worms. With some time you will reach the worm population you need to process the required amount household waste. After that, you can go fishing or start a friend’s worm bin.
Feeding:
Target: Organic kitchen waste
This can be fruit and vegetable waste that is generated in the course of food preparation. Also included are coffee grounds and filter, egg shells (dried and crushed), tea bags, breads, pasta, and pizza crust.
Avoid meat, heavily spiced and fatty foods, oils, salt, dairy and citrus.
Also, be careful with breads and starches - to much will cause heating in your bin which could be detrimental to your worms.
Most common mistake – overfeeding! I know because I have made this mistake. It is very easy to get excited about how much you worms are eating and you will want to give them more. When you give them too much, normally the smell is the first clue. Under most circumstances, vermicomposting does not smell. Overfeeding is the main exception to this rule. When this happens add some fresh bedding and let the worms catch up before feeding any more.
This guide is only intended as a quick overview of what you need to get started. Please check out our Reading List Page for several good books that cover this topic in detail. Our favorite is Worms Eat My Garbage, by Mary Appelhof.
Special Bonus: With your purchase of the Worm Factory composting worm bin system, you will receive a 16 page instruction manual, to help you get going.